The sun was shining and the sky was blue as we walked down to the village and the forecast said it would be like that all day, only turning back to rain overnight. I really hoped they were right, this was one of a handful of days I’d been especially looking forward to and the weather could easily make or break it.

We’d set out later than we really wanted as we needed to get sandwiches for lunch and I was also hoping the outdoor shop would have some waterproof socks. No joy on the sock front although I bought an extra pair of wool ones so I at least had a dry pair to change in to for the night, but the cafe had all the food and drink we needed and we were finally ready for the off. Well almost, one last thing to do – we still didn’t fancy a wet night in a tent yet so phoned ahead to Horton to try to get a room in the hostel or bunkhouse. We hadn’t realised that not only was there a big Three Peaks Challenge event the following day but there was a fell race starting from there at the same time so the village was full to the brim. Luckily we were offered a twin room at the Golden Lion as they’d had a cancellation so we snapped it up, vowing to return to camping the following night. We’d originally intended to keep accommodation costs as low as possible – graduating from campsites to bunkhouses to hotel rooms wasn’t really helping with that!

Malham Cove in sunshine. This is more like it!

The stroll up to Malham Cove was lovely in the best weather of the trip so far. We’d both been there before and knew about the steep steps up the side so were expecting a bit of a slog with our heavy packs but actually it was OK and we reached the top with breath to spare!

The fascinating limestone pavement on the top of the cove.

We dropped down onto one of the little shelved areas right on the front edge of the cliff to enjoy the view while we ate our breakfast bars then, after taking photos in every direction (already got loads from previous visits but you just have to take more!), we headed off up the dry, rocky valley at the back that climbs up to the top of the hill towards Malham Tarn.

Looking back down the dry valley towards the cove

I hadn’t been there before and was suitably impressed. The wide open scenery beyond that was very green and almost spring-like and such a contrast to the rain soaked peat bogs and moors. The Tarn itself was very peaceful with the gentle breeze just ruffling the surface.

Walking round Malham Tarn. A positively serene experience after the last few days!

We met Les and Ian again and walked and chatted with them round the Tarn but as ever when walking with another party, our different paces and conversational requirements began to feel slightly awkward so when they stopped for a photo break we took the hint and walked on! We only saw them once more after that when they passed us as we ate our lunch on Fountains Fell but we heard from others later that they were doing ok and as far as we know they finished on schedule a couple of days before us.

Beautiful green grass, blue sky and fluffy clouds on the way to Fountains Fell

Fountains Fell wasn’t quite what I’d expected. It seems to take ages to get over as the path takes a long route on a fairly shallow gradient along the hillside and round the summit.

Penyghent doesn’t look too difficult when viewed from Fountains Fell

On reaching the top Penyghent immediately comes in to view, actually looking like quite a modest climb from that angle. It seems to grow much bigger and steeper though as you approach it after the long descent from Fountains Fell and a plod of about a mile along the road to its south west corner.

From the path below Penyghent it looks like quite a climb!

Being the third significant climb of the day it takes a lot of energy to get up but luckily the weather remained bright and clear so the huge views from the top made the effort more than worthwhile. In fact although I’d been up once before it was only this time that I realised you can see the sea from the summit – the late afternoon sun just picked out a bright silver horizon of water in Morcambe Bay around 30 miles to the west.

Extensive views all around from the summit

Hull pot is visible straight ahead from the top of the path to Horton on the lower flanks of the hill. When we got down there we took the short diversion and marvelled at the huge size of this hole in the hillside – but we were pretty tired by that time so didn’t marvel for too long.

Hull Pot is well worth the brief diversion – it’s enormous and not something you see every day!

The last stretch of the day’s journey was an easy downhill stride along a walled lane – well, it was easy to follow but the limestone hardcore surface with the occasional extra rubble topping was a bit hard on battered legs and feet.

No navigation skills required – this is it all the way down to Horton

We were passed by a runner first heading up the lane above Hull Pot then she overtook us again going back down near Horton and we saw her for a third time in the Golden Lion while we were checking in at the bar. We’d assumed she was training for the following day’s fell race but it turned out she’d just gone for a routine jog up the mountain for a look at the conditions and was planning to just be a spectator at the actual event. She was impressed that we were backpacking the whole Pennine Way in one go but I reckon we were more impressed that she’d just run up to near the top of Penyghent and back again and still looked totally fresh and relaxed! A different type of fitness I suppose.

The bar was pretty full that evening when we went down to eat with lots of talk about both of the next day’s events among participants and spectators. We headed back to our room fairly early and dozed in front of the TV for a while before finally admitting defeat and settling down in our beds for a comfy night’s sleep.

Day 5 | Menu | Day 7